Cashmere is a natural fiber derived from the undercoat of the Hircus goat, an animal that lives on the plateaus of Central Asia, in some of the harshest climatic conditions on the planet. Compared to common wool, it is much warmer, weighs a fraction, and is not scratchy on the skin. This is why, for centuries, it has been considered the noblest material for knitwear.
In this guide, we will explain its origins, how it is collected, what justifies its price, and how to tell if the item you are looking at is authentic cashmere or not. We will do this from the perspective of those who have been working with yarns and knitwear every day since 1960.
The Hircus Goat and its Undercoat
In the steppes of Mongolia and the Himalayan regions, winter lasts six months and temperatures drop to forty degrees below zero. To survive, the Hircus goat develops a layer of very fine down close to its skin, beneath its outer coat, called guard hair. This undercoat is called duvet, and it is the only part of the animal that becomes cashmere.
Duvet fibers measure between 13 and 19 microns in diameter. A human hair measures about 70 microns. It is this extreme fineness, combined with the fiber's length, that determines the quality of the yarn: finer and longer fibers result in softer, more compact knitwear that is less prone to pilling over time.
Why is it called cashmere if it comes from Mongolia?
The name comes from the Kashmir region, between India and Pakistan, where for centuries the artisanal processing of this fiber was concentrated before it traveled to Europe along the Silk Road. Over time, the name of the processing location became the name of the material, even though today almost all raw fiber comes from Mongolia and northern China.
According to tradition, Marco Polo was the first to encounter these goats during his travels in Asia and bring news of them to the West.
How it is collected
Collection occurs only once a year, between March and May, when the goats naturally begin to shed their winter coat. Shepherds comb the animals by hand with special combs, separating the duvet from the outer guard hair. This is a skill that has been passed down through generations in Mongolian families.
On average, 100-150 grams of usable fiber are obtained from each goat per year. For a sweater, two to six goats are needed, and for a coat, up to twenty. World cashmere production does not reach 0.5% of wool production. These numbers, even before processing, explain the price.
After collection, the fleece is hand-selected, washed, and stripped of coarser hairs. Only the finest, longest, and lightest fibers end up in high-end yarns.
Cashmere and wool: what really changes
Anyone who wears cashmere for the first time notices it immediately. It doesn't itch, and can be worn directly against the skin without the typical itchiness of sheep's wool. For the same weight, it is much warmer, because the fiber's structure traps warm air close to the body, and at the same time, a cashmere sweater weighs very little, so much so that it can be comfortably worn even under a jacket.
Then there's a lesser-known quality: cashmere is thermoregulating. It insulates when it's cold but breathes when the temperature rises, which is why it can be worn comfortably from October to April, not just in the coldest months.
Finally, durability. A good quality cashmere garment, treated with minimal care, lasts decades. And with washing, it tends to become even softer.
How to recognize real cashmere
The market is full of garments labeled as cashmere at prices that should make one reflect. Often these are blends with minimal percentages of precious fiber, if not viscose or acrylic. The "pashmina shawls" for a few euros sold in tourist resorts are the most notorious example.
The first check is the composition label, mandatory by law in the European Union: it must state 100% cashmere. Then there's the touch. Authentic cashmere is soft but dry, while many imitations feel slippery or almost soapy, because they are treated with softeners that mask a poor quality fiber. Looking at the knit against the light, a quality yarn appears compact and uniform, without sparse areas. Another simple test is to gently pull the fabric: the real one returns to shape, imitations remain deformed.
The most obvious and reliable criterion of all remains the price. With such a rare raw material, a sweater declared 100% cashmere sold at fast fashion prices is almost certainly something else. Where the garment was spun and manufactured also matters: Italian production involves quality controls that mass production does not.
Workmanship matters as much as the raw material
The same raw cashmere can become an excellent or mediocre garment depending on how it is spun, dyed, and knitted. It is no coincidence that major luxury brands produce in Italy: Italian spinning means regular yarns, deep dyes that do not fade, and finishes that enhance the natural feel of the fiber instead of forcing it.
At Sovrano Maglierie, we have been working with precious yarns since 1960. Three generations of artisanal experience, cashmere and merino wool garments made by expert artisans and checked one by one before shipment. Our idea of knitwear has remained the same for sixty years: quality raw material, well-executed workmanship, timeless style.
Discover the Sovrano Maglierie cashmere collection
How to care for a cashmere garment
Cashmere should be washed rarely and gently. By hand in cold water, or in the washing machine on the wool program at 30 degrees with a delicate detergent. No aggressive spin-drying and no tumble dryer: gently wring it out in a towel and lay it flat to dry, in the shade.
It should be stored folded, never hung, because hangers deform the shoulders. During the summer, it's best to store it clean in breathable bags with cedarwood or lavender, which keep moths away.
One last thing that is good to know: pilling that appears during the first uses is normal even on high-quality cashmere. These are the short fibers on the surface, they can be removed with a special comb and decrease over time. Abundant and persistent pilling, however, is a sign of short and poor quality fiber.
Frequently Asked Questions about Cashmere
Can cashmere be machine washed?
Yes, using the wool or delicate program at cold or a maximum of 30 degrees, with a specific detergent and minimal spin. Drying should be done flat, never hung.
Why is cashmere so expensive?
Because it is rare. Each goat produces only 100-150 grams of usable fiber per year, collection is done by hand only once in spring, and for a sweater, the fibers of two to six animals are needed. Added to this is the cost of specialized spinning.
Is cashmere warmer than wool?
Yes. For the same weight, it insulates significantly more than sheep's wool, despite being much lighter. Furthermore, it breathes when the temperature rises, so it doesn't make you sweat.
What does 2-ply cashmere mean?
It means the yarn is composed of two strands twisted together. A two-ply yarn is more compact, warmer, and more resistant than a single yarn, and the garment lasts longer.
Does cashmere pill?
Slight initial pilling is normal even in high-quality garments and reduces with use. However, if it is abundant and persistent, the fiber used was short and of low quality.
What is the difference between cashmere and pashmina?
True pashmina is cashmere obtained from a Himalayan goat with even finer fibers. In commerce, however, the word is often used for viscose or blended shawls, so the only guarantee remains the composition label.
